The word ‘trunk’ may have various meanings and uses this day and age (especially when it’s preceded by the words ‘junk in the’), but for our purposes, we’ll assume we’re talking about the trendiest of CBD establishments this writer has had the pleasure to review. That being said, Trunk restaurant is a lot like that something extra special you didn’t expect to find, buried deep within its own maze-like corridors and tucked – appropriately – at the back.
On this particular Friday night, as we navigate clumsily through what feels like a stampede of after-work Trunk bar devotees, my guest and I are happy to find solace in what is quite possibly a function room by day, dimly-lit bistro by night. The space is dark and secluded, perhaps a bit too dark, but inviting nonetheless. The candles flicker in stark contrast to the warm wash of the lively indoor and outdoor bars just beyond our table, but we take our seats knowing that the food is our main attraction.
We order simple wines to start, although they carry an extensive list of varietals, and have our first peak at the food menu as eagerly as a stupid kid looking over his cheat sheet before an exam. We’re a bit hungry and cranky and almost forget the first cardinal rule of dining at a restaurant for the first time: one should always ask for recommendations.
Our waiter Joey is a sharp, friendly fellow who lists the day’s specials and informs us, once we bug him, that the soft shell chili crab is just the thing to curb our hunger. I’m surprised to find that the crab comes fried, although my taste buds don’t mind the slight crunchiness of the batter. The chili and fresh coriander are what make the dish, as the crab simply melts on your tongue like hot butter. Other eye-catching entrees included the caprese salad with Latteria buffalo mozzarella, the antipasti plate, and of course, the soft baked bread that accompanies each meal.
After we finish up our entrée, my guest decides to tango with the char-grilled Black Angus porterhouse for his main. I decided to go with another of Joey’s recommendations and order the house-made pappardelle with Wagyu beef bolognese. Our mains follow promptly and we dive into them in hopes they taste as appetising as they look. Luckily, the steak is soft and flavourful, and sits atop a small pile of crispy rosemary roasted potatoes. The portion is a bit small, but packs a punch, and my Wagyu Bolognese proves to be on a more filling scale. It is fresh and easy to chew, and I enjoy the fat strips of pappardelle most.
We check out the dessert menu although our stomachs suggest otherwise and have to talk ourselves out of one of the many tantalising dessert cocktails from the bar, many that include Trunk’s beloved Rooftop honey, collected from Melbourne’s own rooftop beehives (awesome).
All in all, I definitely owe Trunk Bar & Restaurant more visits. During the day, when we can really appreciate the heritage listed architecture, perhaps… Or even for that crowded after-work cocktail. Maybe just to try at the menu one more time, to really take our time and enjoy the intricacies of the dinner menu. There’s a pizza list worth getting together with friends over (the number 5 – volcano pizza, of instance), and the atmosphere lends itself to a relaxed, albeit attentive atmosphere. Trunk is the perfect spot for a palate pamper – a refreshing take on modern-day Italian cuisine.
