CLAYPOTS EVENING STAR
A soft, warm glow fills the space and the soothing sounds of the likes of Al Green and Bill Withers ooze from the speakers (they have live music most nights, too). You could almost be in a pokey laneway bar in some romantic, sepia-tinged European city, but you’re not. You’re in South Melbourne, and that’s OK.
Ruba, our host, was of the shit-hot variety. She smiled, she joked and she cared. She plonked us down on a table next to the bar and informed us that this particular table was the ideal battleground for a game of chess. Ruba then gestured toward a chessboard, which prompted me to give Luke, my guest, the kind of cold-eyed stare that would strike fear into the hearts of most men. Later, Luke would proceed to unequivocally kick my arse in two separate games of chess. As it transpires, Luke is a heartless bastard.
Claypot’s menu is formidable. It spans everything from $5 fish tacos to dishes that break the $70 mark. On it, you’ll find items as varied, in both price and flavour, as grilled sardines ($2 each), Stingray Pintxo ($10) and Singapore Shellfish Stirfry ($75). You could swing by and drop $20 on a few street-food style items (they have a daytime hawker stall outside, too) and be perfectly satisfied, or spend $60+ and be equally satisfied, if rather less wealthy.
I opted for the Cajun Flathead and Luke (the bastard) went for the crispy skin John Dory from the specials board – both of which were $25, for the fish alone. After much deliberation, we decided on sides of crushed potatoes with wine and black garlic ($8) and char-grilled vegetables with buffalo feta ($12).
The Cajun Flathead – tangy and sweet with a savoury bite – tasted as though it had been caught and cooked by Poseidon himself. It sunk into my tongue like a narcotic of the sea and proceeded to fill my mind with all kinds of delicious epiphanies, most of which were occurring in my mouth at that exact moment. After dinner, Ruba plied Luke with a thick and sweet black mint tea that was perhaps the finest mint tea either of us had ever sampled. She plied me with beer, and that was fine too.
Whether you pop in for a quick taco and beer, or end up lingering over a top-shelf seafood meal, Claypots Evening Star should be a staple for any hungry Melburnian.
BY OLIVER PELLING
